Agasthyamalai: The place where I want to get lost

Known to be the abode of the great sage Agastya, Agasthyamalai or Ashambu Hills is located at the southern end of the Western Ghats. This area has 26 peaks with an average altitude of 1600 metres. The highest peak is also known as Pothigai or Agasthyakoodam.  The profile of Agasthymalai has an uncanny resemblance to that of Tibet’s Mount Kailash. The Agasthyamalai Mountain has a conical shape that can be seen from Tirunelveli as well as Nagercoil side and is distinct from the otherwise rugged hill ranges. This mountain stands as a sentinel to the vagaries of monsoon.

A variety of medicinal herbs of more than 2000 species are found in this stretch. Apart from that, the peaks and the forests that surround the area are rich in fauna. This is the abode of the Bengal Tiger, the Indian elephant, Gaur, sloth bear, Malabar Spiny Dormouse, lion-tailed macaques, Nilgiri Tahrs, Palm Civets, Grey Slender Loris, King Cobras and birds like the Malabar Trogon, the grey-breasted laughing thrush, grey-headed bulbul and other varieties and reptiles. It is also a place for the elusive and rare mountain goat.

Agasthyamalai is known for the rich ecosystem and plant diversity. The beauty of the place is yet another factor. These peaks are also the home of the tribes knows as Kanikkarans and they are an old tribe. Their knowledge of herbal medicine is connected to the myths related to Sage Agasthya. It is said that the great sage has bestowed upon them, the secret of how not to be a martial race. To these people their land is sacred and they take care of the place and are the best guides around the Tiger reserve.

The Agasthyamalai Biosphere is recognised by the UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in the year 2001. This area is shared by Kerala and Tamil Nadu with 1828km2 belonging to Kerala and  1672.36 km2 belonging to Tamil Nadu.

From the peak of Agastyamala, there is a near perfect view of Kanya Kumari.

LOCATION

The Agasthymalai and the other peaks lie between Kerala and Tamilnadu, between the districts of Kollam and Trivandrum on one side and Kanyakumari and Tirunelveli districts on the other. The peaks are dominated by Agasthymalai and the five-peaked mountain, Ainthuthalai Pothigai, which happens to be a little shorter at an altitude of 6109 feet. There are many perennial streams as the dry season is only for 3 months from January to March. These streams merge together at the lower slopes to form the Kallada River, Achankoil, Vamanapuram Karamana and Neyyar rivers on the Kerala side and Thamirabharani and Manimuthar rivers on the Tamil Nadu side. The nearest towns are Nedumangad by road and the nearest railway station and the airport are on the Kerala side, in the state capital, Trivandrum. On the Tamil Nadu side, the nearest town is Nagercoil which is 217 km. away. This town has a railway station.

HISTORY

The myth that relates to this place is that when the marriage of Lord Shiva to Goddess Parvathy was announced, all the devas or Gods, rishis or sages and people rushed to the north at Mount Kailash to witness the celestial marriage. This, in turn, sent the earth wobbling dangerously out of its path. Seeing this predicament, Lord Shiva asked Sage Agasthya to go south and to meditate to bring the earth back to its normal path. The sage is known to be one of the Saptha Rishis. Sage Agasthya’s meditation set right the path and earth were saved. The mountain came to be known in Sage Agasthya’s name.

PLACES TO SEE

1. Neyyar Wildlife Sanctuary: The natural vegetation in this sanctuary is substantial. There are Tigers, sloth bears, elephants, sambar, barking deer and 30 species of reptiles, 176 species of birds along with a variety of amphibians and fishes. Boating is one facility in the Neyyar basin where the water that flows from the hills collect.
2. Peppara Wildlife Sanctuary: Is the drinking water resource for the city of Trivandrum. It is 50 km. on the Ponmudi route. It is rich in fauna and a great place for ornithologists. There are tigers, sloth bears, barking deer and other animals, 233 species of birds, amphibians,27 species of fishes and reptiles
3. Shenduruny Wildlife Sanctuary: located 60kms. from Kollam town, the Sanctuary has been named after a tree, Chenkurunny. There is a lake in the middle of the sanctuary. The place abounds with a lush forest and an ideal place for elephants, leopard, Nilgiri Langur, spotted deer, barking deer and other species of wild animals. There are caves that can hold 20 people at one time. There are prehistoric paintings and it is believed that the oldest civilization in the world lived here between 4400 and 3700 BC. The nearest airport is in Trivandrum, 70 km. away and the railway station is nearby at Thenmala. There are roads connecting major cities.
4. Palode Reserve Forest: There are about 13 tribes settled within the area. The forest area is alive with animals and thick vegetation. It is 55 km. from Trivandrum, which has the nearest airport and the railway station.
5. Kalakkad  Mudanthurai Tiger Reserve: the Naraikadu forest, meaning Grey Jungle surrounds the tiger reserve and is privately owned by the Dhonavur Fellowship. It is a well-maintained area and has the prestige of being the best well-preserved area in the Ashambu Hills. There is a waterfall known as the Banertherthum Waterfall in the middle of the Reserve.
6. Suruli Falls: a great place to visit, it has two falls. The water originates from the Meghamalai Hills and the initial falls is a 150 feet drop where it collects in a pool and flows a few metres further to drop another 40 feet. A major attraction in this place is the 18 caves and some of them have rock-cut temples belonging to the 18th century. This place is accessible by road from Cumbam (10 km.) and Theni (56 km.), both from the Tamil Nadu side.
7. Agasthya Murthi: The sage Agasthya had made this his abode. The Sage is known to have practised the Siddha form of herbal remedies.  He is often depicted as holding a stone crusher (pestle) in one hand and a bowl like stone pot in the other. The pilgrims trek this hills to offer their prayers at this place. The ascent to the top is arduous and may take two to three days through the most difficult terrains, some of which are death-defying. The sage is also known to have been the person to impart the Tamil language to the Dravidians. There are paths to the temple from both the states.

ACTIVITIES

Trekking is a major activity and it starts from the Bonaccord Plantations at the foothills of the mountains on the Kerala stateside. The guides from the Forest Department necessarily assist these trekkers through the forest. This trekking through the forest is an exhilarating experience and is a two-day programme. The first night is spent in the forest on an island like place surrounded by a moat to keep the animals at bay. The group is limited to a hundred trekkers at one time. This adventure through the forest is only in January and February when the rains subside as it is otherwise difficult and dangerous. Interested trekkers should obtain a pass from the Forest department for this expedition.